Could this be the most uninspired menu in New York? The mussels come in a garlic-white-wine sauce. The waiter says there aren’t any this evening. A bowl of mixed olives is eight dollars. (“Kalamata, Niçoise, Cerignola, green” is the explanation.) Mains include salmon à la vapeur and a mustard chicken, like at a wedding or in seat 60D on a long-distance flight. And the mac and cheese is twenty dollars, because someone thought very hard about truffles when making it. […] The last Happy Ending had anything but—it closed in 2013, many years after its glory days in the mid-two-thousands, when it was rife with birthday parties, bachelorettes, and complicated group checks. […] So for those stuck aboveground, or eating before 9, there are quotidian concerns, like protein: a duck breast cooked so emphatically that it tastes like the filet mignon, and four chunks of salmon that never stood a chance against a garrulous green-curry sauce. Generally French standards, served under helpfully low lights, seems to be the concept.
Amelia Lester, The New Yorker March 30 2015